Pura Vida: Part Two

Hey guys, I’m back! I apologize for the delay in getting on with the story but thank you all for being patient. Now where were we? The last time we spoke, we were talking about the beautiful town of Quepos and the absolute beauty that is Manuel Antonio Park. Good news for you! The beauty does not end there. So hold on tight and let’s continue this adventure. The next stops are Monteverde and La Fortuna. Enjoy!

Monteverde
Day 4

The next morning, we headed out bright and early to the bus station to head to our next destination: Monteverde. In order to get to Monteverde from Quepos by bus, there are two possible routes. From Quepos-Puntarenas-Monteverde or the more popular route is from Quepos-San Jose-Monteverde. Our chosen route was from Quepos- Puntarenas- Monteverde. Now, although we did take this route I do recommend taking the route via San Jose even though it means backtracking. The reason being, is that our designated is not as popular due to the fact that the bus from Puntarenas is very infrequent only coming at 1:15 pm in the afternoon and is a local type of bus which is far from the idea of comfort. As a result, in order to catch the bus, it is necessary to get a bus no later than 9 am from Quepos in order to arrive to Puntarenas in time. Although we made our transfers without a hitch, if you want to be on the safe side go back to San Jose. For those driving, please note that the road down to Monteverde is rough. If you are driving in Costa Rica, I recommend something sturdy like a Jeep or a sturdy car with 4WD. The roads are a disaster and you will thank me when you arrive safely to your next destination. Practicalities aside, lets delve into our arrival in Monteverde.

After a long arduous bus ride from Puntarenas, we finally made it to Monteverde and man were we exhausted. Due to the weather being quite terrible upon arrival (expect always being dressed for rain and sun in Costa Rica), we decided to head to our accomodations, rest up, and do the famous night walks that Costa Rica is famous for. Now, I am going to get real with you. If you are going on the night walk in hopes of seeing an abundance of animals, you will most likely not enjoy this walk. The reason being that animals do whatever the hell they want. You may see many animals or you may not. The choice is up to them. That being said, hiking is the bomb and at night it is so peaceful and so beautiful and at one point we stood in a clearing in the forest and just stayed and watched the stars above us. Something that us city kids do not get the chance to see very well. So while I did enjoy aspects of the nature walk, I probably would not do it again for the main reason that in lieu of a lack of animals the hike is personally not long enough for me. That being said, the guides are incredibly informative and it is evident they have a passion for the wildlife that dwell within these woodlands. Did you know armadillos can postpone their birth ? Now that is pretty neat! Whether or not you do decide to embark on this night walk, the animals you do see are quite cool and the information you learn is invaluable. Just remember to stay safe and don’t get too close to the animals. I don’t know about you, but dying by a snake isn’t my ideal way to die. I was thinking you know passing away in my sleep at the ripe old age of 90. After walking and enjoying the serenity that the night brings, we were dropped off to our accomodations where we rested our bones to get ready for the ziplining adventure that awaited us the following day.

Tarantula on the Night Walk

Ficus tree in the dark
Day 5

The next morning we woke up bright and early, ate breakfast, and got dressed for our ziplining adventure. Like most of the people in Costa Rica, the guides who ran the tour were excellent and engaging. They ensured our equipment was safe and that we understood all directions and had a good time while ziplining. After ziplining on various lines, the end of the course consisted of the Tarzan swing, which is a free jump from a high platform. Now, I was freaking terrified of jumping but I am so glad I went through with it. For someone who has a hard time getting an adrenaline rush these days, the Tarzan Swing reignited the flame within me. If you’re looking for a thrill, this is the place to go. After our ziplining adventure, we decided to fill our bellies and headed over to Tico Y Rico in Santa Elena town for some food. The portions were massive so needless to say I was fully satisfied after leaving the restaurant. After eating, we headed back home to relax and spent the rest of the day just walking about town, overseeing the end of a festival of some sorts, and then headed back to our hostel to relax. This would end up being a good call as the next day proved to be more hiking than we could ever expect.
Day 6

The next morning, we were off to the Hanging Bridges, which is a collection of bridges above the canopy. Now here is the thing, if you at this point have done things like zip lining and walked through national parks like us, the hanging bridges leave you wanting more. That being said, if you are not planning on ziplining, I would highly recommend taking this bridge tour as it also included a hummingbird and butterfly garden (which we found out about after), along with a free art gallery to visit at the end of your walk. The walk offers kilometers of bridges overseeing clearings of forest and beautiful plant life. Better yet, these bridges are senior friendly as there are no major steep inclines or declines as it gradually ebbs and flows. Keep a lookout for wildlife while walking through here and you may get lucky and spot a pizote!

After the hanging bridges, we headed back to Santa Elena for some food and then began the trek to find a ficus tree that locals climb. Please note that if you are scared of heights and value your safety, don’t attempt to climb the tree as there is no harness or supports. However, if you want to channel the spirit of Tarzan, this climb is for you. I fell somewhere in between. To get here, make your way to Monteverde Cloud Forest Lodge and from there ask locals how to find the tree. It is directly off the road from the sign to the lodge inside the forest. One very important note and one I wish I did not have to stress. Guard your belongings. Unfortunately, theft is common and people have often had their belongings robbed from the base of the tree when climbing. Thus, go with a friend and have them watch your belongings while you climb or climb with them. As we looked for the tree we came across a fellow traveller whom we had run into during our visit to the hanging bridges. She joined us and together we successfully found out way to the tree. When we arrived, we were lucky in that only one other group of individuals were there and soon left. Thus, we had the entire tree to ourselves and one by one we took turns climbing this beautiful natural wonder. As we climbed the tree, our newfound travel buddy snapped photos of us with her professional camera to which we greatly appreciated. Despite not going so high up in the tree, the feeling was exhilarating. Top that with being completely surrounded by greenery and only the sound of nature around us, I couldn’t have asked for a better experience. Sometimes you realize that the best things in life really are free.

Photo credits to Claudie (see hyperlink for more stunning photography)

After our climb, the travelling spirit continued and our new companion soon informed us about a spot where locals went to see the sunset. And so, we went on a new journey to discover this hidden spot. Now here’s the thing, when Ticos say something is 15 minutes away, they are vastly underestimating the time. So we walked and walked and walked and after an hour we finally made it to our destination. After arriving covered in dust from the unmanned roads, sitting down on a rock on top of a hill overlooking the river and mountains never felt better. With our new companion we waited for the sunset and while the clouds did try to take center stage it was beautiful nonetheless. The hike was well worth it and the memories we made along the way I will cherish deeply. As we prepared to watch the sunset and wondered how the heck we were going to go back to town, a couple arrived and offered us a ride back to our accommodations and even offered us their wine to enjoy on the hilltop viewpoint. Everything was good, everything was perfect. Our time in Monteverde had been well spent, but what made it all the better was the unexpected adventures and the hospitality we experienced by Ticos. It was not even about ziplining or climbing trees, but rather making memories and just enjoying a beautiful town with old and new friends and being grateful for the opportunity to do so.

La Fortuna
Day 7

The next morning, my friend’s friends who had arrived late the night before and I headed out to our next destination: La Fortuna. Along the way, we passed by a small town in the Guanacaste province at a sugar cane plantation. This stop was something unexpected and after thinking we were going to stop just to get sugar cane juice, we were given the opportunity to make sugar cane juice from scratch using an antiquated press. Just like the hike to the hill to see the sunset in Monteverde the day before had been an unexpected joy, this too added to the list of unplanned yet beautiful surprises. As my friends and I enjoyed our sugar cane juice, I spoke to the owner of the property about the place. He went on about the press and how long he had owned the property, and those who had come before us and his interactions with travellers in the past. As I spoke to the owner he told me he understood everyone had different budgets and he always took that in account when charging individuals. He mentioned how he was always looking to accommodate travellers but that he had unfortunately run into travellers whose efforts at hagglings were insulting when it didn’t justify everything he did. It humbled me, as often vacationers try to haggle for the best price even when it is already very cheap just to say it can be done. While not all travellers are well off, it was an important reminder to keep in mind the reasons for our haggling during our adventures and to ensure we were not disrespecting someone’s work and effort and undervaluing it. The random stop was worth every penny and left me reflecting on life and what we take for granted. As we finished our drinks and conversed, it was time to head back on the road and we thanked the owner for his time and effort and moved forward through hills and valleys of Costa Rica.

After driving for some time, we finally made a stop on the side of the road which sold souvenirs and the views from the road were spectacular. By this time, we had reached Lake Arenal and took a moment to admire its beauty. What I would later find out is Lake Arenal is incredibly important to Costa Ricans and is responsible for much of the country’s hydroelectricity. During the dry seasons on the Pacific side of the country, water is pumped over to assist with irrigation to increase agricultural production. Aside from its great contribution to the country as a whole. Besides this, the lake is also well known for activities such as paddling, kayaking, fishing, and windsurfing. It offers hiking and opportunities for bird watching. While, we didn’t have much time to admire Lake Arenal I urge you to take a moment and explore this surrounding area.

Lake Arenal in the background

Arenal Volcano (isn’t she a beauty)

After stopping off at a restaurant to enjoy the view of the lake below and some food, we carried on. Approaching the town, we were able to admire the Arenal Volcano in all its beauty and grandeur. However, within one moment to the next a storm came in and exhausted from our time on the road we decided best to start our adventures the following day in this great town. So we settled ourselves in, napped, and went grocery shopping instead so that we would be able to make breakfast the following morning. One of the things I would grow to love once we met up with my friend’s friends was the ritual of making breakfast every day and eating together. There is something that felt so homely about the experience as we sat at the dining table with the sounds of the television in the background. As we sat at the table eating fresh papayas and mangoes, and the best eggs I’ve ever had, everything felt right. I think as a society, we miss out on experiences such as these. Everything is always in fast forward in our society, and for once life was finally playing at a slow tempo.
Day 8

The next day, we started on our adventures in La Fortuna. The first stop on our list, Desafio rappelling and Baldi Hot Springs. Now, I’m going to be real. The water rappelling does not come cheap but it does include transport and a delicious meal at the end of the excursion. Please note you will get soaked during this excursion so please ensure you have water shoes and a change of clothes. The men at Desafio were heaps of fun and ensured everyone had a great time. Even for those who aren’t strong swimmers, the men were very accommodating in helping us navigate the waters. It was a great experience, and after working out our bodies, the food at the end of the excursion was truly the icing on the cake. The food was buffet style and included various salads, protein options, and the best damn cassava puree ever. It was a great way to spend our morning and with our bodies properly beaten it was only natural we head to Baldi Hot Springs next.

According to the official Baldi Hot Springs website, these hot springs are the largest hot springs in the world. It has a plethora of various pools of varying degrees, and the flora and aesthetic of the hot springs are absolutely stunning. Brightly coloured flowers decorate the premises and the springs are kept pristine. Want to feel like Kim K for a day? Baldi is for you! The Hot Springs are part of a resort, however for the cost of roughly $35 USD (price may vary) you can get a full day pass to hot springs, complete with a meal at the end of the night. With many areas to sunbathe and some of the pools complete with pool bars it was literally a place where your troubles melted away. We had been running around for so many days that it was good to just relax and take it easy for once. As I rested on the pool lounge chairs as the water cascaded in the background, all the stress and worries of my everyday life were washed away. If this isn’t enough to convince you, not only will you feel like a newborn child without any worry in the world but Baldi Hot Springs also offers some of the best views of the Arenal volcano. My only complaint is the buffet at Baldi Hot Springs as the food was subpar at best. However, with the price you pay and the Kim K experience, the food was the least of my worries.


Day 9

The next day, was the busiest day of our trip yet. After getting our daypacks ready in the morning, we headed to our tour office to see to what we could plan out during that day. The two things on our bucket list, were the La Fortuna waterfall and the Arenal volcano hike. Now, I’m going to give you a fair warning. The walk and hike to go down to see La Fortuna waterfall is not bad, but the way back up from the base of the waterfall is a whole different story. In order to do so, a fair level of fitness is required for the following. Thus, for anyone suffering from heart problems, respiratory issues, pregnant women (unless cleared by your doctor), and those with issues relating to their limbs this is not a plausible hike. For someone like myself who suffers from asthma, even with my inhaler in hand it was rough. That being said, if you do have a clean bill of health, immersing yourself in the water will be worth the stress on your body. The excursion starts off visiting the stables and walking through a small butterfly and frog garden. After this, a 30 minute horse ride ensues in which you then hop off your horses and begin the walk down in the direction of the waterfall. When we arrived at the waterfall, the rushing water was incredibly refreshing. As we entered the icy frigid waters, we were given time to relax and cool our bodies. If you embark on this hike, really cherish every moment in those icy waters as you will need to call on those powers of relaxation when it comes to hike back up.

After our hike back and our horse ride back to the stables, we were driven back to the town to quickly grab a bite to eat and prepare for our next adventure: The Volcano Hike run by Red Lava Tours themselves. Although the weather did not hold out for us, the roughly 5 hour tour exceeded all expectations. Our tour guide Daniel was very knowledgeable and friendly, and as we went on our hike he discussed various plant life and their attributes and uses. We ate fruits off trees, admired the way plants defended themselves from predators, and even were given a berry to help with gastrointestinal troubles. Talk about an all in one experience! Despite not being able to get great views of the volcano because of the weather, the hike was worth it simply because of our tour guide’s knowledge about the nature that surrounded us. It was evident he loved doing this and was truly passionate about it. At the end of our hike, coffee and biscuits were offered to refuel us for the final leg of this excursion: the natural hot springs. Now, this is no Baldi Hot Springs. You are going to get down and dirty. That being said, it was still such a serene experience and with free alcohol included, it practically lulled me to sleep. Seriously, I was falling asleep at dinner after. When we arrived to the springs, the sun had already set and darkness had consumed the sky. As our guides used flashlights to guide the way, they began to set up candles along the perimeter of the springs to create a calming romantic ambience. It’s like having candles around your bathtub but the entire spring is your bathtub. It was a great night and one I won’t easily forget. This excursion concluded our time in La Fortuna and it had been nothing less of amazing.

Author: Passports and Pyjamas

The adventures of a sleepy globetrotter.

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